Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary founder of Rolex, defied the fashion norms of his time by foreseeing a world where wristwatches would become ubiquitous. He aimed for Rolex timepieces to embody precision, innovation, timeless design, and cutting-edge technology, setting them apart in the watchmaking industry.
Starting as an importer of watch parts, Wilsdorf strategically collaborated with top suppliers worldwide to realize his ambitious goals. The initial objectives were to create a dustproof and waterproof case and a movement equivalent to a marine chronometer, requiring minimal interaction from the wearer. This vision materialized in the Oyster Perpetual—a breakthrough with a fully waterproof case and an automatic movement that eliminated the need for daily crown winding, thereby enhancing the watch's longevity.
The ambition was to create a watch so distinctive and desirable that customers might seek it out by brand name, in a market where timepieces were generally chosen for their aesthetics, and branding was often associated with the retailer rather than the manufacturer.
The Perpetual movement, developed through a partnership between Rolex and Aegler, renowned for their Chronometer-rated movements, marked a significant milestone. Rolex's pursuit of excellence didn't stop there; they began producing their own calibres tailored to specific complications, optimizing manufacturing processes while maintaining an unwavering commitment to precision, reliability, and utilizing cutting-edge materials and innovations.
Some notable calibres are the 1030 from the 1950’s, with bi-directional automatic winding, the 1560, which introduced the Microstella regulating system, making COSC certification easier. Calibre 3135 is often referred to as the workhorse of Rolex calibres, running from the 80’s until it was superceded by the 3235 in late 2015.
Rolex continues to innovate, progressing from Kif Shock Absorbers to Paraflex Shock Absorbers, from Breguet hairsprings to Syloxi hairsprings, and from the Swiss Lever escapement to the Chronergy escapement — consistently leading the way in watchmaking advancements.
Let's delve deeper into your watch, exploring the caliber that drives it, and gaining a deeper understanding of this intricate piece of machinery on your wrist!