In the world of high-end watchmaking, few names carry the same weight as Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. These two independent Swiss manufacturers have become benchmarks in the industry - not just for their technical achievements, but for the way they've each defined what it means to make a truly great watch.
While they share some similarities - both are family-owned, both produce watches in relatively small numbers, and both focus on traditional craftsmanship - their approaches are often quite different. If you’re considering a watch from either brand, or are simply curious about how they compare, it’s worth exploring their histories, design philosophies, and contributions to modern horology.
Patek Philippe was founded in Geneva in 1839 and has remained under the ownership of the Stern family since 1932.
The brand is known for its conservatism, consistency, and focus on timeless design. Its slogan - “You never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation” - sums up its long-term view of watch ownership and legacy.
Audemars Piguet was founded a few decades later, in 1875, in the Vallée de Joux - a region often regarded as the technical heart of Swiss watchmaking. Still in the hands of its founding families, AP has long been respected for its complications and innovation.
While perhaps less traditional in tone than Patek, Audemars Piguet has built a reputation for risk-taking and creative design, particularly in the last 50 years.
Both brands are closely linked to two of the most important luxury sports watches ever made - the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. Designed by Gérald Genta in the 1970s, both watches have gone on to define their respective brands.
Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak in 1972. At the time, it was a radical idea - a luxury watch made of stainless steel, priced higher than most gold watches. Its bold design, with an octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet, became a signature look. Over time, the Royal Oak evolved into a full collection, with chronographs, perpetual calendars, skeletonized models, and more - all while keeping that core design language intact.
Patek Philippe followed in 1976 with the Nautilus. It had a softer case shape and a more subtle presence on the wrist, but the basic idea was similar: a luxury sports watch that offered the practicality of steel with the refinement of traditional watchmaking. In recent years, demand for the Nautilus - especially the now-discontinued 5711 - has surged, making it one of the most talked-about watches in the industry.
Both watches remain central to their brands’ modern identity. The Royal Oak is arguably more versatile in terms of the range of designs and complications available. The Nautilus, on the other hand, is seen as the more understated and reserved of the two.
When it comes to complications and movement finishing, both brands are leaders - but they take different approaches.
Patek Philippe is best known for its complicated watches: perpetual calendars, chronographs, minute repeaters, world timers, and grand complications. The brand is also famous for its movement finishing, which meets the Geneva Seal or its own in-house Patek Philippe Seal standards. The level of attention to detail - from hand-beveled bridges to polished screws - is consistently high across the collection.
Audemars Piguet also has a strong tradition of producing high complications, including ultra-thin perpetual calendars, flying tourbillons, and minute repeaters. In recent years, the brand has pushed into more experimental territory with the Royal Oak Concept and Code 11.59 lines, which showcase technical innovation through new case designs, materials, and skeletonized movements.
Both brands produce their own movements in-house. Patek's are more traditional and restrained, while AP sometimes experiments with materials, geometry, and architecture. The end result in both cases is impressive, but their priorities are clearly different.
In terms of production, both brands operate on a relatively small scale compared to most watchmakers. Patek Philippe is believed to make around 70,000 watches per year, while Audemars Piguet produces slightly fewer - somewhere in the range of 50,000. This limited production contributes to the exclusivity and collectability of their watches.
Patek Philippe watches are often seen as long-term pieces - something to keep in the family, or pass down. Models like the Calatrava and the Grand Complications are valued for their stability and heritage. Meanwhile, certain steel sports models, such as the Nautilus and Aquanaut, have become incredibly sought-after, often trading well above retail on the secondary market.
Audemars Piguet, especially with the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collections, has become something of a cult favorite in the watch community. Limited editions and boutique-only models have further fueled demand.
Collectors are drawn to AP not just for its design, but for its willingness to take risks and experiment with form and function.
There’s no simple answer to the question of Audemars Piguet vs. Patek Philippe. It really comes down to what kind of watch collector you are - or want to be.
If you value traditional design, understated elegance, and watchmaking that leans heavily on heritage, Patek Philippe is likely the better fit. Its watches are rarely flashy, but they offer long-term value - both emotionally and financially - and represent some of the finest traditional Swiss craftsmanship available.
If you prefer bold design, innovative materials, and a more modern take on high-end watchmaking, Audemars Piguet may be the way to go. Its Royal Oak collection in particular offers a wide range of variations, from classic time-only models to advanced complications, all wrapped in a distinctive design language that feels both contemporary and enduring.
At the end of the day, both brands offer exceptional watches. The right choice comes down to personal taste - and perhaps, which story you want your watch to tell.
At BQ Watches, we specialise in sourcing some of the most beautiful luxury models from both Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. If you don’t spot your ideal timepiece in our current inventory, don’t hesitate to reach out to our team. With our extensive sourcing services, we’re dedicated to helping you track down your dream watch. Get in touch with the BQ Watches team today and let’s talk watches!
At BQ Watches, we're here to help you find your perfect Swiss luxury watch. If you don’t spot your ideal timepiece in our current inventory, don’t hesitate to reach out to our team. With our extensive sourcing services, we’re dedicated to helping you track down your dream watch. Get in touch with the BQ Watches team today, or visit our luxury London showroom, and let’s talk watches!
