Watches & Wonders 2025, the world’s most prestigious horological trade show, roared to life in Geneva, Switzerland, unveiling an electrifying lineup of timepieces that pay homage to heritage while pushing the boundaries of innovation.
This year’s releases masterfully combine timeless craftsmanship with exciting innovations, keeping collectors intrigued. From the latest Patek Philippe and Cartier creations to the highly anticipated new Rolex models, these launches have set the watch world abuzz.
Let’s take a closer look at the timepieces making headlines.
Bvlgari has once again claimed the crown in ultra-thin watchmaking with the launch of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon - the world’s thinnest tourbillon ever created, measuring an astonishing 1.85mm in total thickness.
This milestone marks Bvlgari’s tenth world record in the ultra-thin category, solidifying its legacy far beyond a fleeting trend.
More than just a record-breaker, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a testament to Bvlgari’s bold reimagining of traditional watch design and engineering.
By incorporating a skeletonised tourbillon that enhances light flow throughout the movement, Bulgari has achieved a remarkable fusion of visual lightness and mechanical complexity.
Crafted by the brand’s Swiss watchmaking atelier, this feat demonstrates the Roman jeweller’s deep expertise in executing one of haute horology’s most iconic complications within an unprecedentedly slim form.
Cartier has revived the iconic Tank à Guichet after two decades, offering a sleek and minimalist interpretation of their legendary design. Originally introduced in 1928, this "digital" watch features hour and minute apertures and now returns in four editions, three of which pay homage to its Art Deco roots.
However, one edition stands out with subtly offset hour and minute displays, adding a contemporary twist to its storied heritage.
The Tank Louis Cartier, renowned as one of Cartier's signature pieces, undergoes a significant update. It now houses the new in-house automatic 1899 MC movement, allowing Cartier's design team to explore a slightly larger case size. This move is intriguing amidst a trend favoring smaller watch proportions in the industry.
In tribute to Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier's pioneering female creative director, the new Cartier Tank Tressage makes a bold statement. This design reimagines the classic Tank case with sculptural metal brancards, braided for a dramatic effect. Available in four variations, from elegant gold to dazzling diamond-set options, it caters to collectors seeking a standout piece.
This collection embodies Grand Seiko's original design philosophy, known as Evolution 9 Style. It seamlessly integrates the timeless essence of Grand Seiko with the subtle interplay of light and shadow, capturing the essence of Japanese aesthetics. By skilfully these transitions, these timepieces reveal the inherent beauty and functionality of the wristwatch to its fullest extent.
At the heart of these watches lies the innovative Spring Drive technology, a landmark in modern watchmaking.
nlike traditional movements, Spring Drive combines a mainspring with advanced electronic components, eliminating the need for batteries or external power sources. A rotor linked to the gear train generates a small electrical charge, powering an electronic circuit and quartz oscillator.
This unique approach ensures unparalleled accuracy for a mechanical watch. Grand Seiko's mastery in both mechanical and electronic watchmaking was crucial in developing the 9R Spring Drive movement, underscoring their exceptional craftsmanship and technological prowess.
IWC leans into compact proportions this year, downsizing its 2023 Ingenieur - a revival of Gérald Genta’s 1976 Ingenieur SL—to a sleek 35mm case in three variations: 18k pink gold with a gold-toned dial, and two stainless steel versions with black or silver-plated dials.
The Ingenieur Automatic 40, a highlight from last year’s lineup, now appears in an opulent pink gold case, as well as a striking green-dial edition tied to Brad Pitt’s upcoming Formula 1 movie.
IWC's technical prowess shines in the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41, blending their iconic 1985 crown-operated perpetual calendar with Genta's original 1976 design. Breaking new ground, IWC introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in full ceramic—a first for the brand, exuding sleek sophistication in black zirconium oxide.
Continuing its cinematic flair, IWC unveils a trio of chronographs inspired by APXGP, the fictional F1 team from Pitt's upcoming film. Among them, the Pilot's Watch Performance Chronograph 41 APXGP stands out in black and gold, marrying racing-inspired aesthetics with impeccable watchmaking craftsmanship.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is celebrating the Reverso in all its glory, combining its legendary reversible design with high complications and old-world artistry. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds offers a dual-time display in a svelte Art Deco case, while the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds elevates dress watch minimalism with a pink gold Milanese bracelet that seamlessly integrates with the case.
For the first time ever, Jaeger-LeCoultre brings a world-time complication to the iconic Reverso with the Reverso Tribute Geographic. Available in steel or pink gold, it nods to the 1998 Reverso Géographique, featuring a finely etched world-time display on the caseback.
Just as captivating is the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater. Powered by the cutting-edge Calibre 953, this timepiece is a sonic and visual masterpiece, set against a grand feu enamel dial with exquisite barley-seed guilloché.
Meanwhile, the Maison’s Métiers Rares atelier makes an artistic statement with four Reverso models showcasing hand-painted miniature enamel scenes from the Persian epic, the Shahnameh. Each dial is a wearable canvas, reflecting Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unrivaled command of high craft and storytelling.
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, a favourite among globetrotters, returns in a refined new edition, featuring an ivory lacquer dial with blackened white gold indices. The clever push-button system at 8 and 10 o’clock allows seamless local time adjustments without stopping the seconds hand - ideal for frequent fliers.
The Maison also introduces a fresh take on the Nautilus 7010, now in white gold with a shimmering azure lacquer dial and a diamond-set bezel. Subtle yet sophisticated, it’s a masterclass in refined sport-luxury design.
Celebrating its Formula 1 heritage, TAG Heuer reinvents the Monaco with a split-seconds chronograph housed in white ceramic. This ultra-modern take on the 1969 classic features a red-tinted translucent dial and pushers designed to mimic the aerodynamic curves of a high-performance race car.
Limited to just 10 pieces, it’s a pure adrenaline rush in wristwatch form.
The all-burgundy Black Bay 58 makes its debut on a refined 5-link bracelet with a T-fit rapid adjustment clasp, housed in a 39mm stainless steel case with a blend of polished and satin finishes. Its rich burgundy bezel insert adds a striking contrast, while a domed sapphire crystal ensures durability and clarity. The stainless-steel screw-down crown, adorned with the Tudor rose in relief, enhances the watch’s vintage-inspired charm.
With a water resistance of 200 metres (660 feet), the Tudor Burgundy Black Bay 58 is built for adventure - whether that means exploring the ocean depths or curating the perfect watch collection.
For added versatility, it comes with a choice of three strap options: a stainless steel five-link bracelet, a vintage-inspired three-link “rivet-style” bracelet, or a comfortable rubber strap.
Vacheron Constantin's latest masterpiece, the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, redefines luxury with its groundbreaking design. Boasting 41 complications, including rare astronomical features and an innovative Westminster minute-repeater, this watch represents eight years of meticulous research and development.
With 1,521 components and 13 patent applications, it stands as the most complex mechanical wristwatch ever created. Among its myriad functions, it tracks the sun's position, chimes with four miniature gongs, and predicts the visibility of stars.
Crafted from 18-karat white gold with over 200 jewels, including sapphire discs, this singular timepiece is a testament to innovation in horology.
Possibly the biggest luxury watch news of 2025 is the Rolex Land-Dweller - a brand-new model featuring an integrated bracelet and a high-beat Caliber 7135 with the cutting-edge Dynapulse escapement. This new escapement, inspired by natural escapements typically found in ultra-high-end watches, makes the movement incredibly efficient.
Despite running at 10 beats per second instead of 8, the power reserve remains 66 hours, just like the 1908 Perpetual. The design nods to Rolex history, with a flat-link Jubilee bracelet, a concealed clasp, and even an exhibition caseback, reminiscent of the vintage Rolex 1630.
New dials have arrived for several gold Rolex Daytona models.
Meteorite dials return to the white gold and Everose gold Oysterflex versions, while the yellow gold bracelet Daytona now features a green dial - though slightly different from the legendary “John Mayer” Daytona. The white gold bracelet Daytona also gets a blue dial with red accents, reminiscent of previous iterations.
Additionally, chocolate dials make a comeback for the Everose gold Daytona on both bracelet and Oysterflex versions.
To celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Rolex Datejust, the Datejust 31 now features a stunning red ombré dial, a nod to ruby red as the traditional colour of 80th anniversaries. Unlike previous ombré dials, this one is PVD-coated for a more contemporary look.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lineup - which spans 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 41mm - introduces five new lacquered dial colours; pistachio, lavender. beige, black (replacing the old bright black sunbust dial) and blue (replacing the bright blue sunbust dial).
Meanwhile, the Candy Pink OP is now available in 28mm and 34mm, in addition to the existing 31mm and 36mm sizes. The turquoise and green lacquer dials remain exclusive to the 31mm and 36mm sizes, while the 41mm model does not get the lavender dial. Rolex has now streamlined its Oyster Perpetual dial offerings across all sizes, with the exception of the silver dial, which remains the only non-lacquered option.
While the yellow gold Rolex 1908 Perpetual is a refined dress watch, it hasn’t quite reached the same cult status as Rolex’s sports models.
The platinum version, thanks to its textured ice-blue dial, has garnered more attention. However, Rolex is aiming to elevate the yellow gold variant with the introduction of the Settimo bracelet. It looks somewhat like a Jubilee bracelet, but with two extra centre links, and is actually far more complex in construction.
At BQ Watches, we take pride in offering a meticulously curated selection of pre-loved timepieces, and we're here to help you find the perfect one. At BQ Watches, we provide a luxury showroom experience featuring an extensive selection of prestigious brands. Whether you prefer to browse online or visit our London showroom, our knowledgeable staff is here to guide you every step of the way, ensuring you find the ideal timepiece to suit your style and needs.
At BQ Watches, we're here to help you find your perfect watch. If you don’t spot your ideal timepiece in our current inventory, don’t hesitate to reach out to our team. With our extensive sourcing services, we’re dedicated to helping you track down your dream watch. Get in touch with the BQ Watches team today and let’s talk watches!
