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In the world of luxury watches, Cartier stands out as one of the top brands favoured by collectors. Founded by jeweller Louis-Francois Cartier in 1847, the brand has been coveted since its inception, and its vintage models are particularly sought after for their timeless elegance and quality.
While many of Cartier’s vintage watch designs are still available today and have become iconic, these pieces can often carry an extraordinary price tag. When it comes to vintage pieces, there can be a bit of luck involved in finding them. The most desirable of the brand’s designs, such as the Tank or Santos-Dumont, may fetch prices upwards of tens of thousands of pounds.
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That said, there are other models that offer a lot of Cartier charm which are easier to source. The Vermeil models, introduced in the mid-1920s, feature steel cases and gold-plated designs, while the elegant Deco designs harken back to the same era with slim rectangular or oval faces and geometric detailing. The later Casablanca models, introduced in the 1980s, are perfect statements in modern elegance, with square designs featuring rectangular and trapezoidal indices.
Today, many of Cartier’s most beloved and iconic designs can still be found in pre-owned markets. The brand is still best known for its traditional watches, but Cartier has also launched more high-tech models over the years, as well as limited editions. However, if you’re in search of the classic appeal of a vintage Cartier watch, the timeless designs of these models are worth the search.
Synonymous with creativity and open-mindedness, Cartier sees beauty in all aspects of life. At its core are values of freedom, excellence, and sharing, which reflect in its unique jewellery and watchmaking. Crafted with precision and unparalleled savoir-faire, each piece embodies the timelessness of the Cartier brand.
The iconic red box created by Cartier may be considered a collectable, as it has made multiple appearances throughout history. Not only was it featured in the 1926 Broadway production, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, but it was also transformed into a mini cinema screen for the pop-up exhibit at Selfridges department store in London in 2013.
Inspired by images of the tanks utilized by the French Army during World War I, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch with a minimalistic yet appealing look. Now widely popular around the world, the Cartier Tank is known for its timeless, sophisticated style. Throughout the years, numerous variants and subcategories have emerged, all of which feature the same iconic name.
The first iteration of the Tank, and perhaps the rarest, is the Tank Normale. The Tank Normale is a revolutionary piece of watchmaking, responsible for opening the door to the array of models that followed. Interestingly, it has never been made available in Cartier’s Collection Privée Cartier Paris line, making it a must-have for serious collectors. The rarity of original versions in white gold or platinum makes them even more desirable – often selling for a premium at auctions.
Today, the Tank in all its forms is a timepiece guaranteed to stand the test of time. The Tank Francaise is one of the most popular models from the French watchmaker. The brancards of the watch have a curved and rounded shape. The crown is inlaid in order to complement the profile of the brancards and is finished with a satin effect. The watch face boasts a sunray design with Roman numerals, and most vintage versions are paired with a leather strap.
In the 1970s and early 1980s, Seiko decimated the mechanical watch industry with the introduction of the Astron, the world’s first quartz watch. Cartier, too, became a victim of the Quartz Crisis; the high cost of their gold and platinum watches made them unable to compete with the quartz watches.
The Must de Cartier watch line was launched in 1976 in response to this, and the design was based on the Tank Louis Cartier. It was crafted from silver with a gold plated finish, known as Vermeil, and priced at $500. It marked two major milestones for the brand: for being the first non-precious metal watch and the first mass-produced watch.
The Must line featured variations of dials including faux-stone dials which resembled onyx and lapis. These lacquer dials were also made in wood and tortoiseshell effect for the 70s and 80s aesthetics.
In 2000, it was discontinued, but 2021 saw a relaunch. The new generation Tank Must watches now come in plain, lacquered dials in colours such as deep blue, burgundy, or dark green and come with matching straps, and are predominantly quartz with steel finishes, as opposed to the original Must watches in Vermeil.
Original pieces are still available on the pre-owned vintage market and make a beautiful addition to any collection.
Since the 1800s, the panther has been a treasured symbol of the House of Cartier, renowned for its strength, elegance, enigma, and beauty.
In 1983, Cartier launched the iconic Panthere de Cartier watch collection, which was named for the design of its flexible bracelet, inspired by the graceful movements of the big cat. More than just a watch, the Cartier Panthere combined beauty and functionality in a single piece of jewellery for the wrist. According to Cartier, this was the original concept for a “jewellery watch.”
In addition to various sizes, the Panthere was available in a number of materials, including white gold, yellow gold, two-tone steel and gold, and a combination of white and rose gold. For those with a penchant for luxury, there were even diamond-encrusted models. Though the Panthere watch was popular among Cartier fans, the entire collection was discontinued in 2004, creating a void in the watch market. In 2016, Cartier reintroduced the collection to a new generation.
The Cartier Panthere continues to be a highly favoured item when it comes to vintage timepieces.
Perhaps one of the most easily recognisable models of the brand is undoubtedly the Santos, created in 1904. To this day, it continues to be a bestseller. It has retained its traditional aesthetic, consisting of a square case, eight screws in the bezel, an Art Deco dial with large Roman numerals, and a central railroad minute track.
As a tribute to its enduring appeal, the luxury brand has updated the watch, most notably in 1978 with a specially-designed metal bracelet boasting screws mirroring those on the bezel.
In 1987, the Santos Galbée was distinguished by its slightly curvier design compared to its predecessors. This is mostly due to its curved lugs.
Sporting a round dial, circular case, and an octagonal bezel, the Santos Ronde watch came onto the scene in the 1980s and quickly gained popularity for its unique look.
No matter which model you decide to buy, you will be thrilled with this timeless watch, whose vintage appeal remains unparalleled.
With so many vintage options available, the Cartier watch continues to be a collectors dream. Cartier takes a timeless approach to watch design, pushing the boundaries of fashion trends and dedicating its attention to creating sophisticated design classics. Through its use of geometric detailing and precision mechanics, the luxury watchmaker displays a commitment to excellence that is unparalleled. Browse our carefully curated selection below.
