While much of the talk surrounding this year’s Watches & Wonders in Geneva was (unsurprisingly) centred around Rolex, it was sister company Tudor who stole the show with the brand-new Black Bay 58 M7939A1A0RU-0001.
Featuring a brilliant sundust burgundy dial with a matching bezel, this new 39mm Black Bay iteration is an upgradem, not just cosmetically, but also mechanically; as well as the updated design, the new Black Bay 58 also boasts the METAS Master Chronometer certification, giving the M7939A1A0RU-0001 an additional edge of precision over its previous counterparts.
Tudor’s first diver’s watch with a water resistance of 200m was released in 1958, four years after the introduction of the Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 in 1954. The legendary reference 7924, also known as the "Big Crown", set the tone for decades of robust, functional, and beautifully designed tool watches from the brand.
The "58" in Black Bay 58 refers to this foundational year, and the collection has always channelled the aesthetic & proportions reminiscent of that original dive watch.
The updated M7939A1A0RU-0001 in burgundy continues this lineage with its familiar 39mm stainless steel case, a size that echoes the compact, functional dimensions of the 1950s. The case remains slim and wearable, offering vintage-inspired elegance while maintaining contemporary utility.
The new Burgundy edition adds a new dimension to the Black Bay 58’s story by revisiting a chapter of Tudor’s design history that never made it to production. In the 1990s, Tudor developed a prototype of the Submariner reference 79190, featuring a deep burgundy dial with a matching bezel - a bold departure from traditional navy and black palettes.
Though it never reached stores, this concept remained in the archives... until now.
Fast forward to 2025, and Tudor has reimagined this striking prototype with modern craftsmanship. The rich burgundy bezel and matching dial offer a warm, bold aesthetic that sets this model apart from its siblings. Subtle gilt accents on the dial and hands give a nod to vintage sensibilities, while Super-LumiNova lume ensures clarity in low light.
While the colourway is striking, the biggest leap forward is invisible to the eye. For the first time ever, the Black Bay 58 is METAS-certified as a Master Chronometer - placing it among the most rigorously tested watches in the industry.
This certification, awarded by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), ensures that each fully assembled timepiece meets incredibly high standards in four critical areas:
• Chronometric Accuracy: Tested to perform within 0/+5 seconds per day in real-world conditions.
• Magnetic Resistance: Withstands magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss - ideal for modern environments.
• Water Resistance: Each watch is individually tested to its stated depth rating.
• Power Reserve: Must meet or exceed the advertised autonomy - in this case, a solid 70 hours.
This comprehensive certification speaks volumes about the quality of Tudor’s in-house Calibre MT5400, the movement powering this new model. It’s reliable, robust, and now officially recognised as one of the finest movements in the industry.
In addition to the technical advancements, TUDOR is doubling down on comfort and versatility. The Black Bay 58 Burgundy is now offered with three strap configurations, each equipped with the T-fit rapid adjustment system:
• A 3-link “Oyster-style” bracelet for a clean, tool-watch feel
• A 5-link “Jubilee-style” bracelet for a dressier, more classic look
• A textured rubber strap that adds sporty versatility and water resistance
T-fit allows for instant micro-adjustments without the need for tools, making the watch more adaptable to temperature changes, wrist swelling, or daily preference.
Tudor didn't stop at the time-only model. In a thrilling expansion of the Black Bay 58 family, the brand also launched the Black Bay 58 GMT in 2025.
Keeping the same universally loved 39mm case, the GMT variant introduces a new mid-size in-house GMT Manufacture Calibre, allowing wearers to track multiple time zones with ease.
The bezel features a warm colour palette - burgundy, black, and gilt - that perfectly complements the Burgundy diver while adding functionality for travellers and collectors alike. Like its sibling, the GMT is also METAS-certified, ensuring top-tier performance across the board.
This release isn’t just another colour update. It’s a symbolic bridge between past and present:
• It honours the 1958 milestone that defined Tudor’s professional diving legacy.
• It revives a design from the '90s that many collectors had only dreamed of.
• It ushers in a new era of technical certification, positioning Tudor firmly among elite watchmakers that offer METAS Master Chronometer models.
The 2025 Black Bay 58 Burgundy is a masterclass in thoughtful evolution - staying true to the essence of what made the Black Bay a success, while embracing modern standards in design, comfort, and chronometric performance.
Whether you’re a long-time Tudor enthusiast or someone new to the brand, the new Black Bay 58 Burgundy offers something special. It’s bold yet familiar, vintage in spirit yet modern in execution. And with the addition of Master Chronometer certification and strap flexibility, it’s more versatile and reliable than ever.
For those who appreciate a well-balanced watch that blends heritage with cutting-edge performance, the 2025 Black Bay 58 Burgundy is a must-see - and likely a must-have.
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