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If you’re learning about luxury watches, there are many terms, definitions, and features to understand. It can be a bit intimidating for the uninitiated. One term you may have heard before is the ‘Moonphase Complication’.
But what is a moonphase complication watch? How does it work? You can find all the answers in the BQ Glossary. Today’s lesson is moonphase complication watches. Let’s dive in!
Moonphase complications in watches are a unique feature of many mechanical timepieces. These complications are often considered to be one of the most eye catching and fascinating complications. Moonphase complications keep track of the changing lunar cycle, which has long been used as a tool for navigation, making it a very useful complication.
A moonphase complication in a watch utilizes a disc and a small window on the dial to display the different phases of the moon. There is a gear inside the watch which is linked to the moonphase disc. As the gear rotates, the moonphase disc displays the waxing and waning phases of the moon. The window on the watch dial shows the current phase of the moon, which is usually depicted with two geometric shapes representing the sun and moon.
The most traditional, and therefore, most popular moonphase complication is the 29.5-day cycle, but there are also other variations. Some watches feature a more detailed astronomical moonphase complication, depicted with a close-up view of the moon’s surface. This type of moonphase complication is much less common and is usually found on higher-end timepieces.
Moonphase complications can take up a sizable portion of the watch’s diameter. The complication is usually placed on the inner face of the dial, leaving a lot of negative space. This makes the moonphase complication appear larger than it actually is and gives it a bolder presence.
Even if you don’t need to call upon the stars for your navigation, the beauty of a well-executed moonphase complication is hard to ignore. It’s an aesthetically pleasing complication that is a unique addition to any watch collection.
Before the advent of the contemporary calendar, different methods were used to measure time, like utilizing the sun’s rising and setting to calculate days, the changing of the seasons to measure years and the moon’s phases to measure months. One of the earliest watch mechanisms developed was the moonphase complication. This involves placing two identical moons on a disc under the dial. This disc is controlled by a 59–tooth driving wheel, advanced by a mechanical finger once per day. After a single 29.5 day lunar cycle is finished, the second moon appears, accounting for a total of 59 teeth (29.5 x 2).
The specifics of the disc design will depend on the dial and aperture, while the driving wheel is a constant. Standard moonphase watches tend to be relatively precise, though the 59–tooth driving wheel is limited in accuracy. This means that the watch will be off by an entire day once every two years, seven and a half months, so manual adjustment is needed every three years or so in order to keep pace with the lunar cycle.
Meanwhile, an increased level of accuracy can be found in luxury watches equipped with a 135–tooth driving wheel. That level of precision means that the watch will be off by one day after 122 years, as opposed to two years, seven and a half months.
To set the moonphase correctly, begin by pulling out the crown and positioning the hands at the lower half of the dial to prevent any chance of damaging the movement while adjusting the moon disc.
Assuming your moonphase is set using the 29.5-day model, each tooth corresponds to a single day in the lunar cycle. Many watches, including the Rolex Cellini Moonphase, have a pusher to advance the moon by day-to-day increments. To accurately set the moonphase, check its current phase online and adjust the disc, so the full moon is visible through the aperture.
If five days have passed since the last full moon, orient the moon disc so that the full moon is at the top and then shift it forward by four days. Next, set the watch’s date one day before the current date, and then pull out the crown to the time-setting position and move the hands beyond midnight, so the date jumps forward to today’s date. This should advance the moonphase to the appropriate lunar stage five days after the full moon phase.
Now that you know what you can expect from a moonphase complication watch, you may want to add one to your collection. Of course, there are plenty of choices available. Let’s take a look at some popular watch models that have moonphase complications.
The Omega Speedmaster is a timeless classic, having been a part of all six lunar missions. Omega is recognized as one of the premier manufacturers of mechanical watches in terms of their design, performance, and sturdiness. Their products are admired by many for their distinct style, dependable operation, and robust construction.
This moonphase edition of the iconic timepiece takes inspiration from space exploration, with a 44.25 mm black sun brushed dial and diamond polished 18K Sedna gold indexes and hands. At 6 o‘clock is a Moonphase indication, with a hand–engraved 18K Sedna gold moon disc filled with enamel, and powdered with silver to replicate the stars.
Perhaps the most eye catching feature is undoubtedly the moonphase display, which features two delicate yet realistic images of the moon. The photo–realistic moons are embedded into a tiny metallic crystal disc, which is microstructured to render a high–resolution image. One of the most talked about features of this watch, it is claimed to have an almost exact likeness of a NASA astronaut’s footprint on the moon.
One of the most prestigious brands to offer the moonphase complication is Patek Phillipe. Several of their collections offer the complication, with the Nautilus being perhaps the most recognisable. One such model is the ref. 5712/1A-001.
With its octagonal bezel, porthole-shaped case and horizontally embossed dial, it continues to hold its own – even forty years later. The Nautilus range now consists of models for both men and women, with various materials to choose from, such as steel, rose gold, white gold or two-tone combinations.
A wafer of corundum crystal is cut to form a disc with an aperture cut at its upper edge to represent the lunar cycle. The disc is decorated with gold stars and two golden moons against a blue or white background representing the sky, and is created through a vacuum process with a photographic mask. The resulting disc is then made to rotate within its aperture.
These pieces of fine craftsmanship provide an unparalleled touch of class to any watch collection.
At the heart of the Cellini Moonphase was a calibre 3195 self–winding mechanical movement. This movement had a 48–hour power reserve and was crafted with the same level of accuracy that is synonymous with Rolex watches.
When the Rolex Cellini Moonphase was released, it was met with great enthusiasm by watch enthusiasts all over the world. It combined timeless elegance with impeccable craftsmanship to create a design that was unique, yet unmistakably Rolex. However, much to the chagrin of many Rolex fans, the Cellini Moonphase was eventually discontinued – making it even more sought–after among collectors of vintage timepieces.
The exquisite moon phase complication, 18–karat Everose gold case, alligator leather strap and superb calibre 3195 self–winding mechanical movement powered by a 48–hour power reserve made the Cellini Moonphase an excellent example of Rolex’s signature elegance and quality. The combination of the Rolex design aesthetics and a unique complication made the timepiece a true classic.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar offers a highly accurate moon phase-display, which only strays by 1 day every 577.5 years. This impressive timepiece is equipped with an array of desirable and functional features, such as a perpetual calendar, year indication window and 7-day automatic movement with Pellaton winding, all powered by IWC-manufactured 52000-calibre movement.
The watch face boasts subdials to show the phase of the moon, date, month, day, power reserve and small seconds, all set within a silver-plated dial. Made of 18-carat red gold and an arched-edge front glass, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar has an elegant alligator leather strap.
The shading of the brown leather strap blends beautifully with the gold of the casing, making this an elegant piece, ideal for anyone looking for a classic watch with a rich and detailed history.
If you’re looking for an incredible selection of pre-owned moonphase complication watches, there’s no better place to go than BQ Watches.
Click here to visit our page on luxury Moonphase watches.
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