When it comes to building a watch collection, enthusiasts are often drawn to specific pieces for their craftsmanship, heritage, design, and potential for value appreciation. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a newcomer, selecting the right watches to invest in can be an exciting and rewarding journey.
Here's a guide to help you choose the best watches to collect, based on different criteria like rarity, historical significance, and long-term value.
Why it's a great pick: The Rolex Submariner is a quintessential tool watch that remains one of the most coveted in the world. Launched in 1953, it was the first diving watch to guarantee water resistance up to 100 metres, setting a new standard in the watchmaking industry. Its timeless design, with bold hour markers, a rotating bezel, and unmatched legibility, makes it versatile enough to pair with both diving gear and formal attire. The Submariner is a symbol of adventure, worn by explorers, divers, and even cultural icons like James Bond. Models like the vintage Ref. 5513, known for its no-date simplicity, or the modern Ref. 126610, featuring upgraded materials like Cerachrom bezels and a refined movement, offer a range of choices for collectors.
Collectibility factor: The Submariner enjoys high demand due to its enduring appeal and heritage. Vintage models, especially those with rare features such as metres-first dials or gilt dials, command premium prices at auctions. Limited or discontinued versions like the green-bezel "Kermit" (Ref. 16610LV) or the vibrant "Hulk" (Ref. 116610LV) are particularly prized, often appreciating in value over time, making the Submariner both a collector’s dream and a sound investment.
Why it's a great pick: Patek Philippe is synonymous with luxury and timeless elegance, and the Calatrava is one of its most iconic creations. Introduced in 1932, it set the standard for dress watches with its minimalist design, focusing on perfect proportions and refined details. Known for its understated elegance, the Calatrava exudes sophistication, making it the perfect companion for formal occasions. Models like the Ref. 5196, with its clean lines and manual-wind movement, or the Ref. 5119, featuring a classic hobnail bezel, showcase Patek Philippe’s dedication to craftsmanship and design.
Collectibility factor: The Calatrava’s enduring appeal ensures strong demand, particularly for vintage models or limited editions that reflect the brand's rich history. As one of Patek Philippe’s flagship collections, its prestige bolsters its status as a desirable investment. Rare variations, unique dials, and precious metal cases often see significant value appreciation over time, making it a cornerstone for collectors who value heritage and exclusivity.
Why it's a great pick: The Omega Speedmaster is not just a legendary chronograph but a cornerstone of horological history, earning its nickname “The Moonwatch” after being the first watch worn on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. Its robust build, precise chronograph function, and timeless design have made it a favourite among professionals and enthusiasts alike. The Ref. 311.30.42.30.01.005, with its Hesalite crystal and manually wound movement, pays homage to the original Moonwatch while offering modern reliability. Vintage models, particularly Pre-Moon references like the 105.003 (“Ed White”) or 145.012, hold immense historical significance, making them highly desirable for collectors.
Collectibility factor: The Speedmaster boasts a passionate and global following, with demand driven by its historical legacy and enduring design. Vintage models with unique features—such as tropical dials, applied logo dials, or rare bezel variations—command premium prices. Limited editions, like the Apollo 11 Anniversary editions, also attract attention due to their exclusivity. As a versatile timepiece that bridges sportiness and history, the Speedmaster remains a strong investment and a cornerstone of any serious collection. Its connection to space exploration ensures its story will always resonate with watch lovers and history enthusiasts alike.
Why it's a great pick: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a groundbreaking timepiece that revolutionized the luxury watch industry. Designed by Gérald Genta in 1972, it was the first high-end watch to feature stainless steel as a luxury material, paired with an integrated bracelet and an octagonal bezel inspired by a ship’s porthole. Its bold, avant-garde design challenged traditional watch aesthetics and established a new genre of luxury sports watches. The Ref. 5402 (the original "Jumbo") is a grail piece for collectors due to its historical significance, while the Ref. 15500, with its modern updates and meticulous finishing, continues the legacy of this iconic watch.
Collectibility factor: The Royal Oak’s collectibility is exceptionally high, especially for vintage models like the Ref. 5402 A-Series, which are rare and highly prized. Limited editions, such as the "Frosted Gold" versions or collaborations with artists, further enhance the allure of this model. The scarcity of production and the brand's exclusivity have driven demand, with prices often appreciating significantly in both the vintage and modern markets. As a symbol of design innovation and horological excellence, the Royal Oak remains an essential piece for collectors seeking a blend of artistry, craftsmanship, and cultural impact.
Why it’s a great pick: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a masterpiece of functional elegance and timeless design. Introduced in 1931 for British polo players in India, its ingenious flip-over case was designed to protect the watch’s delicate glass from damage during matches. Over the years, the Reverso has evolved from a practical sports watch to a symbol of Art Deco sophistication, with its clean lines and rectangular case exuding understated luxury. Modern iterations feature intricate complications like moon phases and dual time zones, while still preserving the classic design. Vintage models, especially from the Art Deco period or those with rare dial variations, represent the height of collectibility and style.
Collectibility factor: The Reverso’s rich history and iconic status make it a must-have for discerning collectors. Customisable case backs, often engraved or enamel-painted, add a personal and artistic dimension to its appeal. Limited editions and rare vintage pieces, such as those with coloured dials or original mechanical movements, command significant interest. As Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to refine and innovate the Reverso collection, its blend of heritage, versatility, and craftsmanship ensures its lasting allure in the world of horology.
Why it’s a great pick: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas is a standout in the realm of luxury sports watches. Combining elegance with practicality, the Overseas features an integrated bracelet, exceptional finishing, and a versatile design that transitions seamlessly from casual to formal wear. Its in-house movement showcases Vacheron Constantin's technical expertise, while its anti-magnetic construction and 150-metre water resistance make it robust enough for everyday adventures. The Ref. 4500V, particularly with its mesmerizing blue dial, has become a modern icon, celebrated for its intricate details and interchangeable strap system that enhances versatility.
Collectibility factor: With Vacheron Constantin gaining recognition for its horological heritage, the Overseas is increasingly sought after by collectors. Limited editions, such as the Everest models, or versions with complications like perpetual calendars or dual-time displays, are especially prized. As production remains limited and demand for high-end sports watches grows, the Overseas has seen rising values in both the primary and secondary markets. Its blend of craftsmanship, prestige, and modern practicality makes it an essential addition to any serious collection, especially for those seeking a watch that balances luxury and performance.
Why it’s a great pick: The TAG Heuer Monaco stands out with its bold square case and distinctive chronograph layout, making it an icon of racing heritage and avant-garde design. Introduced in 1969, it was one of the first automatic chronographs and featured a unique left-hand crown. Its fame skyrocketed when Steve McQueen wore it in the 1971 movie Le Mans, cementing its status as a symbol of motorsport cool. The vintage Ref. 1133B, with its blue dial and Calibre 11 movement, is a grail piece for collectors, while the modern Monaco Calibre 11, with its retro styling and upgraded mechanics, offers timeless appeal for contemporary enthusiasts.
Collectibility factor: The Monaco occupies a special niche in horology, appealing to both motorsport fans and collectors of distinctive designs. Vintage models, especially those directly tied to McQueen or with rare dial variations, command high premiums at auctions. While modern versions are more accessible, limited editions such as the Gulf Racing models or anniversary pieces attract heightened interest due to their exclusivity. The Monaco’s rich history and bold aesthetics make it a statement piece and a rewarding addition to any collection, bridging the worlds of cinematic legacy and horological innovation.
Why it’s a great pick: Grand Seiko is renowned for blending traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology, and the Spring Drive movement is a testament to the brand's innovation. This revolutionary mechanism combines the accuracy of quartz with the smooth sweep of a mechanical watch, offering unparalleled precision and elegance. The SBGA413 (Shunbun), part of the "Four Seasons" collection, is a masterpiece with its soft pink textured dial inspired by cherry blossoms, while the SBGA229, a robust diver’s watch, showcases Grand Seiko’s ability to balance durability with refined aesthetics. Both models exemplify the brand’s hallmark Zaratsu polishing, exceptional finishing, and dedication to detail.
Collectibility factor: Grand Seiko has gained a dedicated global following for its exceptional quality and artistry. Limited editions or models with unique dials, such as the Snowflake or seasonal-themed creations, have become highly desirable among collectors. The rarity of these pieces and their meticulous craftsmanship often result in rising secondary market values. As Grand Seiko continues to expand its reputation beyond Japan, its watches—especially those with the innovative Spring Drive movement—are increasingly viewed as worthy additions to any collection, offering both timeless beauty and technical brilliance.
With countless watches to choose from, finding the perfect one can feel overwhelming. At BQ Watches, we provide a luxury showroom experience featuring an extensive selection of prestigious brands. Whether you prefer to browse online or visit our London showroom, our knowledgeable staff is here to guide you every step of the way, ensuring you find the ideal timepiece to suit your style and needs.
At BQ Watches, we take pride in offering a meticulously curated selection of pre-loved timepieces, and we're here to help you find the perfect one. If you don’t spot your ideal watch in our current inventory, don’t hesitate to reach out to our team. With our extensive sourcing services, we’re dedicated to helping you track down your dream watch. Get in touch with the BQ Watches team today and let’s talk watches!
